Crag Etiquette
This is a living document, please email any updates/errors to us at Hello BACC.
Tragedy of the Commons
Our Bishop climbing areas are being loved to death and we are seeing resource damage, threats to access, and poor perception of climbers.
Our Bishop climbing areas are being loved to death and we are seeing resource damage, threats to, access, and poor perception of climbers. It’s important for all climbers, local, visiting, new, and experienced, to be responsible and maintain good ethics while recreating here. These responsibilities include: minimizing impact on ecosystems, maintaining climber access, respect for other climbers, and long-term sustainability. The behavior of climbers influences how others view the climbing community, and these perceptions often influence decision-makers. Demonstrating respect and thoughtfulness as a climbing community goes a long way. By adhering to these ethics, climbers can ensure a sustainable future for Bishop climbing areas.
The BACC worked with local land managers, climbers, and community members to compile the guidelines below.
Photo credit: Nate Stutz
You are Climbing on Indigenous Land
Indigenous people have lived in and cared for the Payahuunadü (Owens Valley) for over 15,000 years. The five federally recognized tribes of the Eastern Sierra include the Bishop Paiute Tribe, Big Pine Paiute Tribe, Fort Independence Tribe, the Lone Pine Paiute Shoshone Tribe, and the Bridgeport Indian Colony. They are the original stewards of this valley.
Cultural Resources
The Nüümü (Paiute) and Newe (Shoshone) cultural sites you may encounter in Bishop climbing areas include but are not limited to petroglyphs, petroglyphs, pestle and mortar locations, hunting blinds, and chipping sites for obsidian tools.
Respect these places and leave what you find: do not touch, move, or share their location. These are cultural resources protected by federal and state law. Review the How to Recreate Responsibly in Payahuunadü, compiled by the Environmental Management Office of the Bishop Paiute Tribe.
We also encourage you to visit the Paiute Shoshone Cultural Center, supported by the Bishop Paiute Tribe, to learn more about the history of these lands and its people.
Consider and Respect Non-Climbers
We share our climbing areas with many other user groups. It is important to recognize and have consideration for all people recreating and living in the area, not just climbers. Be welcoming and mindful of who you see out there!
Limited or No Cell Service
Be aware that cell service in this area may be limited or unavailable. Plan accordingly and consider alternative communication methods such as a SPOT or InReach for emergencies.
Carpool, Carpool, Carpool!
Parking areas get crowded, especially over weekends and holidays. Help minimize the impact to crag parking lots by organizing carpooling efforts. If possible, plan your visit during the week or on non-holiday weekends to avoid the crowds.
Drive and Park Respectfully
Speed limit on dirt roads is 25 MPH. Driving slowly on dirt roads prevents rutting, dust clouds, and reduces the risk of collisions with other drivers and pedestrians.
Remember not to block roads or create "bottlenecks" for emergency vehicles, and leave adequate room for other vehicles. Do not park on fragile desert vegetation to make your own spot where there isn’t one. In winter, plants may appear dead but are just dormant. While you may need to park further down and have a longer walk, responsible parking mitigates larger ecosystem issues and improves how climbers are seen.
Don't Crush the Brush
Sagebrush and other delicate desert vegetation take a long time to grow and recover from impacts. They provide important habitat and food for wildlife, such as mule deer and the bi-state sage-grouse.
Do not place gear, crash pads, or use plant life as a coat rack, even if it looks dead. Many desert plants go dormant in the winter and appear dead until spring.
Use established trails to protect vegetation from being trampled and soil from becoming compacted.
Share the Space
Show consideration for other visitors and don’t monopolize an entire area with your bouldering group or by hanging ropes and blocking access to other lines. Once you’re done, pull your rope or pack up your pads and move on.
Leave room for others to move around you. Keep your gear within a small area so others aren't forced to go off-trail or do acrobatics to navigate around your party.
If you are in a large group, consider splitting up to avoid overcrowding an area and going to a less crowded area.
Keep the Crag Clean
Leave the space better than you found it. Brush off tick marks, clean up chalk spills, pack out food waste including fruit peels and nut shells, and all trash, even if it’s not yours. Studies show that when spaces are trash-free upon arrival, others are more likely to follow suit.
We Care Where You Go!
Use established toilets (Buttermilks, Happies, and May-Oct in Pine Creek) for solid human waste. Always carry a WAG bag and pack it out along with your toilet paper. WAG bags may be acquired from Bishop Climbing Rangers, or purchased from Sage to Summit, Eastside Sports (free with rentals), and the Mammoth Gear Exchange. These areas are too popular for burying waste and it won’t break down quickly in the desert ecosystem, causing it to resurface in unpleasant ways. This also goes for pet waste - pack it out.
Stashing Gear is a No-Go
Any unattended gear left overnight may be considered trash and removed. Pack out all gear and equipment every time you hike out of the crag.
Leave the Speaker at Home
Climbing outside allows people to connect with the natural world and enjoy the natural sounds of birds, brooks, and the peacefulness of nature. Sound travels far in the open, desert environment and narrow canyons that make up our climbing areas, and even at a low volume, music can be heard from a large distance. Save the speaker for camp or consider using headphones while climbing.
Drones
Flying Drones in General: Before deploying your drone, ask permission from people around if they mind being filmed. Follow all local, state, and federal laws for flight compliance and use sites such as Aloft.ai/air-control for up-to-date security and compliance regulations.
Wilderness: Drone flying in Wilderness is prohibited by the Wilderness Act.
Alabama Hills: A permit is required to operate a drone in the Alabama Hills—email BLM_CA_Web_BI@blm.gov. Allow 7-10 days for processing; tail number and insurance are required.
Adult Supervision for Children
Young children who walk under climbers and over ropes may cause safety issues for themselves and other climbers. Please ensure that young children are supervised by a responsible adult at all times.
Pet Considerations
Bringing your pet to the crag may be a safety issue and cause a disturbance for other climbers, other pets, and wildlife. Unsupervised dogs can stress wildlife and disturb soil.
Best Practice: leave pets at home
Better Practice: keep pets on a 6’ leash and in immediate control and within arm’s reach of the owner. Do not attach a leash to vegetation.
ALWAYS clean up and pack out pet waste - don’t leave pet waste bags behind with the intention of coming back for it later.
No Barking Dogs: Barking dogs can be disruptive to other climbers and wildlife, and may create safety issues. Owners must take immediate action to quiet their dog if it barks excessively, which may mean leaving the crag. Do not bring dogs that are aggressive to other people or animals.
Pine Creek: dogs should always be left at home during lambing season, mid-April to June.
Consider and Respect Wildlife
Respect the home of the wildlife that roams these areas. Give all wildlife their space and make sure your pets and children do the same. Do not leave food out and pack out all trash.
Peregrine Falcons and other Nesting Birds: often build nests on high, steep walls such as those found in the Owens River Gorge and Pine Creek. Avoid crags where the falcons are nesting. Already on a route and keep getting buzzed or dive-bombed? This is a good indicator to get down and away from that route ASAP.
Rattlesnakes: Rattlesnakes typically begin to emerge from their winter dens starting in March and usually return to their dens by October. Keep pets on a leash and if you hear a rattlesnake, avoid quick movements, leave it alone, and back away slowly.
Lead by Example
Social science proves that when people witness others practicing minimal-impact behavior others are more likely to follow suit. Take opportunities to lead by example and teach one another with compassion through conversation instead of negative confrontations. Leave the least impact possible. This becomes especially important for large groups.
Lost and Found
Contact the Bishop Climbing Rangers Oct-May.
Post on the Facebook page Bishop Partner-Finder and Meetup.
Post to Mountain Project Forums
Sage to Summit accepts lost and found items.
Sport-Specific Considerations
Below are specific guidelines based on the type of climbing you prefer
Trad and Sport Climbing Etiquette
Bolted Anchors: Set up your own top rope anchor anchors instead of going through the fixed anchor to help minimize wear and tear.
Do Your Research: Check rope length requirements as Bishop area sport and trad climbs often require up to 80m ropes to lower safely. Always tie knots regardless of the stated climb length.
Leaving Top Ropes and Fixed Lines: When putting up a top rope or fixed line on a route, climbers are encouraged to consider the current level of activity at the crag. Leaving a rope hanging while the crag is busy is considered both inconsiderate and inappropriate.
Leaving Draws on a Route: Climbers who leave draws on a route for pink-pointing risk having them removed by others.
Food Storage On Multi-Pitches: Ravens are some of the smartest birds on the planet and are experts on opening up pack zippers, even if there is no food. Flip your hood into the body of your pack and cinch tight. Then turn your backpack so the back is facing up to help prevent birds from getting into your bag. This method does not work for large mammals, like bears.
Bouldering Ethics
These were mentioned above, but bear repetition. Do not stash gear, keep pads off vegetation, even if it looks dead, erase tick marks, and stay on trail.
Area-Specific Considerations
Pine Creek Crags
Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep (SNBS): In the 1990s, only 125 bighorns remained in the entire Sierra Nevada and in 1999, became fully protected by state and federal law. While climbing in Pine Creek, remember that SNBS are the locals. There are currently no restrictions on climbing in bighorn habitat, please maintain good ethics to protect climbing access in Pine Creek:
Keep an adequate distance to avoid spooking them. If a sheep is reacting to your presence—you’re too close!
Do your best to limit loud noises.
Leave pets at home to avoid stressing the SNBS population. If they can't be kept at home, they must be on a leash at all times.
Between mid-April and June, avoid climbing 1.5 miles of cliff between Pratt's Crack and the Mill, which are sensitive lambing areas.
Owens River Gorge “The Gorge”
The Gorge is Private Property: This area is owned by Los Angeles Department of Power and Water (LADWP). Respect the access we have to this area. Don’t block roads with your vehicle, don’t park on pavement, and absolutely no camping or campfires on LADWP properly.
Respect Closures: The Gorge may be closed at any time, especially in late spring and summer when water is released and the narrow gorge becomes dangerous to recreate in.
Buttermilks Boulders
The community of Starlite is less than a mile from the Buttermilks. It’s important to consider this community and all the other recreationalists who visit the Buttermilks Country. Additionally, The shrubland surrounding the Buttermilks climbing areas is an important wintering range for mule deer.
Accessing the Buttermilks: Use Buttermilk Road. Starlite Drive leads to a private community and climbers will not access the climbing areas this way.
Keep vehicle speeds at 25 MPH or less. This reduces airborne dust and severe rutting, decreases the chance of car vs deer accidents or car vs pedestrian, and promotes safe driving.
No Parking on South side of Buttermilk Road, especially by the Whale Boulder. By parking only on the north side of the road, we help prevent bottlenecks and ensure a clear path for emergency vehicles. This setup also allows safer exits for everyone in case of an evacuation.
Volcanic Tablelands (Happy and Sad Boulders)
Climb in established areas: There are many Indigenous cultural sites in the Tablelands. Climb only in the established areas such as the Happy and Sad boulders. Disturbing cultural sites, even just taking a small piece of obsidian, gives climbers a bad reputation and is prohibited by law.
Prevent the Spread of Russian Thistle: This highly invasive weed is painful and unattractive. Prevent the spread of this plant by brushing mats, dogs, clothing, bags, etc. after climbing. It is vital to stay on trail at all times because soil disruption harms native plant growth and promotes the spread of Russian thistle.
No Camping in Parking Lot: The parking lot is private property owned by the LADWP. Do not camp here.
Support Local Businesses
There is power in choosing to spend your money at the small, locally-owned business in Bishop. For some of our favorite local businesses, visit our Local Amenities Page HERE!
Climbers’ Economic Impact: Bishop and Inyo County
From 2019-2020, Eastern Kentucky University studied the economic impact of rock climbing in the Bishop area. Findings include:
Climbers visiting Bishop/Inyo County spend an estimated $15.6 million annually in Bishop and Inyo County.
Climber expenditures support $5.1 million annually in local wages and an estimated 127 total jobs.
Due to COVID-19’s impacts on visitation, Bishop and Inyo County lost over $10 million annually in potential climber expenditures.